Press the trigger…

Now the upper is on track. We will now be looking at the lower receiver. The assumption here is that you have a good quality lower receiver that is in spec.

For the longest time I have been using the Rock River Arms (RRA) 2-Stage triggers. The 2 stage allowed a range of smooth movement and then tension just before the hammer was released.

 

In speed completion where seconds count I discovered that the trigger pull was not meeting the expectations I had. I needed something where I have a nice crisp pull, consistent and quick reset. The Timney was my first choice, at $200 this trigger seemed to be effortless. The problem was in the reset, the versions (two identical versions) I had tended to “bump fire” when shooting from a bench. When a weapon “bump fires” the recoil impulse from the discharge of the intended round is enough pressure to fire the next round unintentionally. Firing 3-5 rounds sounds like fun, but an inconsistent burst needs to be avoided.

When I came across the LWRC Enhanced Fire Control Group I decided to give it a try. At half the cost of a Timney I didn’t think I would have anything to lose. Now I have three. This trigger is amazing, at half the cost I get the same consistent trigger pull without the hassle of accidental discharges.

Installation is identical to any standard trigger group.

Now before we finish this installment of the blog, I would be a poor example if I didn’t recommend that you install the KNS Precision Pin Set. I thought these were a “cool guy” item for the longest time and then I had my hammer pin slide out halfway and completely stop the rifle cold.

KNS pins replace the factory pin set with a threaded trigger pin and notched hammer pin. A connecting rod travels from one to the other and when properly installed makes an immobile pin set

KNS Pins

"I believe it is a shoulder thing that goes up." -  Carolyn McCarthy (What is a barrel shroud?)

You have to love it when someone is against your hobby but has no clue about it.  So that there is no confusion, today’s entry is about the part of your body you actually “Do” put against your shoulder.  I like to think everyone here knows what end of the rifle the bullets come out of.

It wasn’t that long ago when you had two stocks to choose from, the long and short.  Now the market is flooded with Stocks that do everything from storing batteries to converting weapons into bump firing machine gun style firearms.

Magpul ACS

The stock is a very personal item, like the grip we talked about previously.  Too large or too small is always a concern, today we hope to find one that is just right.
First off, the M16A1/A2 stocks, both are solid rifle lengths that do not adjust, the A1 is a hair shorter and many think the A2 style is the finest target stock made.  Now in the day of body armor nobody will argue that the A2 is too long, and most women seem dwarfed by it.  The Magpul PRS is a great stock for those that want the A1 length and it has to ability to expand well beyond the A2 length for those with massive arms.
My favorite design is the collapsible design.  They have quickly become the most abundant style on the market.  The 5-6 position (depending on maker) is an outstanding beginning.  Now finding the stock you want will most likely be a question of budget.  The average for a competitive aftermarket stock is around $100.  The simple Milspec style ones can be found for as little as $5 and do the same thing; they go against your shoulder and stabilize the rifle.

Magpul CTR

I have facial hair, that isn’t going to change so stocks like the VLTOR series with removable battery compartments is not going to be an option, no matter how good they feel when you try it out at the store will never replace the facial hair that is removed in full recoil.
Magpul (once again, but I promise that I am not a brand whore) makes the UBR, what many to consider the Rolls Royce of the collapsible stocks.  An independent group had to go well beyond any type of normal
damage to get the stock to fail.  Its preset settings and custom length settings allow it a range of movement unheard of and still stay ahead of anything in its indestructibility.  $250, you get what you pay for.

For this project, I will be using the UBR but can achieve the same shooting results with the throw away Milspec stock we tend to ignore.

Magpul UBR

Classic A2 Stock.  Non Adjustable and when wearing body armor gets in the way.  The A1 style is slightly shorter but still very long.
 Contains a rifle length buffer tube and buffer tube/spring.  Also contains a small compartment for a cleaning kit or lead weight for competition distance shooting.

The first item you need to be comfortable with is the grip.  This is your first point of contact with the rifle and needs to be fit to your hand.  A smaller grip is always easier to use than a grip that is far too large. 
The first grip we are going to look at is the basic M-16 grip.  Available with a finger notch and without this grip falls into the small category.  The grip works well with gloved hands but most competitors find the lack of gap filler unacceptable.

The Magpul MIAD series of grips is my personal favorite.  The ability to adjust the back straps is very convenient. I prefer the Medium back strap with the flat front strap.  The gap filler on the back strap places my index/trigger finger on the same plane as the pull on the trigger.  The ability to store items inside the grip is also and added bonus but is most helpful for keeping dirt and debris clear from the internals.

Magpul MIAD Grip

The Tango Down grip is considered to be a small grip.  US Palm, in association with Tango Down makes an improved version that fits larger hands and includes the back strap filler.  The upper portion is very thin allowing smaller hands to get a good hold of the weapon. The thicker lower portion allows the grip to be firmly grasped by the pinkie and ring fingers.

Other grips to include those by Ergo, and many other companies will meet the same needs the user desires.  With my experience the fore mentioned grips are my personal preference.

Magpul MIAD Grip on rifle.

Magpul MOE+

 A rubber coated version of the Magpul MOE grip. The MOE+ works really well.  Soft to the touch yet firm when gripped for use.

A little about myself...

Hello, my name is Howard and for the last six years I have been a Competitive 3-Gun Shooting enthusiast.  Like many competitors, I am former Military and the skills I learned in the Army provided a foundation for what I improved upon in civilian life.

This blog will be focused on building a performance rifle set to meet the needs of an individual marksman.  It will focus on the rifle components that aid in shooting accurately and efficiently.
I am active the shooting sports community and enjoy competitive shooting so creating this blog should help newer competitors get started with the basics on building a performance rifle.  I have learned by trial and error on what parts to use and with a bit of time and patience I would like to pass on I have learned.

From L-R.  .22LR,  9mm,  5.7, 5.56 Blank, 5.56 Nato, 6.8 SPC, 300 AAC Blackout, 7.62 Nato

We will be discussing several caliber choices, but the focus round for this project is the 5.56 round.   

My background in building AR-15 (and AR-10) rifles goes back to my time in the military. I was always interested in building things, and my issued M16A1 interested me since the first day I was issued one in 1993.  

Several examples of rifles I built from scratch.

 6.8 Remington SPC.  Uses a different bolt, barrel, flash suppressor and magazine (actual mag not shown) than the 5.56.  All other parts are the same.

 5.56 with rifle length rails. Lightweight setup.

Precision carbine.  PRI rail. ACOG

.22LR  A dedicated 22 Caliber AR-15 Using standard parts where available.  Dedicated .22 barrel, bolt and magazines.